[ Page 1 ] [ Page 2 ] [ Page 3 ] [ Page 4 ] [ Page 5 ] -------- [ CRW Homepage ] [ Photos from Charlie's demo ]
Step 7: Mount the body of the box into the chuck in the same manner in which you mounted the lid. Make sure it runs true when you turn on the lathe. Cut about a 1/4" tenon on the end of the box body to receive the lid. Take your time with this as it is an important step. You will be turning the lathe off and on many times as you remove small amounts of wood and try the lid for fit. You want the lid to fit snug but not tight. If it is too tight, you might split the top. If it is too loose, you will have a more difficult time later on. But it is better a little loose than too tight. If the lid fits too loose, there are some things you can do which will be covered in Step 9. If you feel the lid is way too loose, you can just cut off the tenon and start another. However, if you do this, be aware that the wood grain between the lid and body won't match as well. It is also important that this tenon have sides that will be parallel to the top. Chamfer the shoulder of the tenon just a touch. Hardly any though. This will define where the lid meets the box. You can use a parting tool, a flat nosed scraper or a skew to cut this tenon.
Step 8: Using your depth gauge, determine the depth to which you can hollow the body of the box. Be sure to leave about 1/4" to 3/8" on the bottom to allow you to finish it. Hollow the body to the proper depth. Sand and apply a finish to the inside of the body. Note: Don't make the tenon too thin and fragile where the lid fastens.
Step 9: Fit the lid onto the body, matching the woodgrain. The lid must have a snug fit to enable it to stay in place as you turn the shape of the box. If the lid is too loose, you may tighten the fit by putting paper or masking tape on the outside of the lip of the body. Be aware not to make the fit too tight or you could split the top. Move the tailstock up and put the tail center into the center mark on the top of the lid. This will true the box to the centers and help support the box for most of your turning. I usually leave the tailstock in position until the shaping of the top of the lid.
[ Page 1 ] [ Page 2 ] [ Page 3 ] [ Page 4 ] [ Page 5 ] -------- [ CRW Homepage ] [ Photos from Charlie's demo ]
This site developed and maintained by Ken Grunke ~ Text and graphics by Charlie Cadenhead, © January 2002