[Crw-talk] News from One Good Turn
Bill Gautsch
bgautsch at charter.net
Tue Jul 6 09:38:03 CDT 2010
I thought you all might enjoy this and subscribe if you wish:
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From: One Good Turn [mailto:brian at onegoodturn.ca]
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 9:34 AM
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Subject: News from One Good Turn
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The "Lathest" News
July 2010 Issue #3
logo <http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/7.jpg>
In This Issue
Welcome to the "Lathest" News!
This newsletter is a collaboration between Brian McEvoy and Gordon
Langer. It will be issued on a regular basis to provide "Tips and
Tricks" to woodturners of all skill levels. While you have the option
of unsubscribing to our newsletter, we hope you will find the
information useful and informative. Along with information we will also
be offering products for sale from time to time.
We have included an article in this issue about the two piece hollow
form process. We have also included photos of our Deep Vessel Boring
tools available for purchase and delivery this fall.
Sincerely,
Brian McEvoy, One Good Turn Gordon Langer, Langer Craftworks
The Two Piece Hollow Form
This article is a companion piece to our Two Piece Hollow Form DVD. If
this tweaks your interest you can find ordering information at the end
of this newsletter .
<http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/20.jpg> Please
understand this lesson in most cases does not show the actual tool
position for making the cuts. You must be able to turn two very similar
shallow bowls to be successful. How you achieve this is not important.
There are many methods and tools used when turning one piece hollow
forms. I have tried most, with some degree of success.
I prefer the two piece method for a number of reasons:
- You can easily complete the process with whatever tools you
now use to turn a platter or a bowl.
- Wall thickness is not an issue. You can easily turn a
delicate piece to 1/8" or less.
- You can finish the inside so when your friends or customers
poke their fingers inside the opening (as they always seem to do) they
will not get a sliver.
And lastly, for me the most important reason is the safety factor,
especially for the larger pieces. Hanging a gouge or scraper over the
tool rest for a long distance is always risky, especially for beginners.
I have completed hollow forms over 20 inches in diameter and only 4
inches deep. Because I pierce much of my work I have turned most of
these to less than 1/8 inch thick. The resuIts can be stunning, and I
am not sure this would be possible with any other method.
Because of the simplicity, I can comfortably turn 3 or 4 of the 10 to 12
inch forms in a day, and they are good sellers. Give it a try. You will
have a blast and make a little extra cash.
Select a very well seasoned piece of timber. It is very important that
your wood is completely dry.
<http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/21.jpg>
A good size to use is 3" x 10 to 12". I have turned two piece flying
saucer bowls as large as 4" x 22" The larger they are the more
challenging they become.
Cut the blank in two. I always bookmatch the pieces.
<http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/22.jpg>
Cut them round and attach faceplates to what will become the inside of
the saucer.
Turn the top first. Select the best or most interesting section for the
top.
<http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/23.jpg> Be
careful not to reduce the diameter of either the top or the bottom
pieces. Remember they have to match perfectly.
Finish turning the outside of the top section to whatever pattern you
choose. Note the deep recess where the opening will be: ¾" to 1" deep
should do. Be mindful of the screws.
<http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/24.jpg> Turn a
dovetail inside the top hole to receive the chuck jaws for reverse
turning, just like you would a regular bowl.
The top outside is complete for now. It is not necessary to sand at
this point.
Essentially repeat the last few steps to turn the outside of the bottom
section of the saucer.
At this point, turn the foot with a ¼" recess for rechucking, in order
to turn out the inside of the bottom section. The main difference
between the bottom and the top pieces is the depth of the recess. Sand
the foot, inside and out, to finished standards. The outside of the top
and bottom sections are now ready for faceplate removal. It is not
necessary to have two faceplates.
<http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/26.jpg> Mount
the top section into a four jaw chuck. I prefer the extended jaws,
finding the extra room a little easier to work with, but any regular
jaws will do.
If your piece is the slightest bit out of round, gently re-turn the
surface in order to true it up. Remove as little material from the
outside edge as possible.
<http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/27.jpg> Square
the inside edge. Only remove the wood that is necessary to square the
edge. You do not want to lose too much in diameter.
Remove enough materials in order to get a straight edge across the full
diameter without hitting any high spots.
<http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/28.jpg> It is
imperative the outside lip be perfectly flat. Note this edge is not
flat.
A skew on its side works well for the final truing. Remember this is
going to be your glue joint. Once you are sure the edge is perfectly
flat (a 1/4" glue joint is fine) start hollowing the inside.
This piece will be turned to 1/8" thickness so remove the wood in 1"
stages, starting from the outside edge. Achieve proper thickness in
this 1" segment before moving further into the bowl.
<http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/30.jpg>
Use calipers for accuracy. This piece will be pierced so the thinness
is necessary. Feel free to leave it as thick as you want.
Keep removing material in 1" steps. Remember you turned a deep recess
in the top piece that will become the opening in the top of your hollow
form.
<http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/31.jpg>
Eventually you will break through. This is now the inside of the top
opening.
Clean this up nicely, being careful not to hit the chuck jaws. 1/16" to
1/8" of wood before the jaws is perfect. This will be sanded away
later. Sand this to finished standards. Remember everyone will be
feeling the inside so do a good job. The top is complete for now.
After removing the top half from the chuck, mount the bottom half and
repeat steps from the top portion. Remember to true the ¼" lip
perfectly. This will also be a glue joint.
<http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/32.jpg> Do a
dry test. Tweak if necessary. A slight variance, for example 1/16",
in the diameter of the two sections is okay. A final sanding and
finishing will take care of this.
Finish turning the inside of the bottom section until you are satisfied
with the thickness. Sand to finished standards.
<http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/33.jpg> While
still on the lathe, apply whatever finish you use to the inside bottom
section. Be careful not to get any on the edge glue joint.
Leave the bottom half on the lathe. Do another dry run. Find the best
bookmatch position and mark both pieces with a pencil. This will make
things easier when you glue the two halves and want them to be
bookmatched.
<http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/35.jpg> Apply
glue to both halves. Clean up the excess.
Using a cone centre, line up the pencil marks and clamp the two pieces,
using the tailstock to apply pressure. If a cone centre is not in your
arsenal, turn one to fit your live centre and the opening on the top
section. The cone will centre the top half to match the bottom. Just
exert enough pressure to squeeze the glue out. Clean up the excess and
let dry for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the tailstock. I use 80 grit
sandpaper to clean up the opening. I like the foam backed Swiss paper.
Using either power or handheld, finish sanding both the top and bottom.
I generally sand to 500 grit.
<http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/37.jpg>
Completed two piece hollow form ready for decorating, if you like, and
finishing.
Finished hollow form. Embellished with finely pyrographed grouse
feather, braided leather collar and pierced using a dentist drill. My
finish of choice is spray lacquer.
Deep Vessel Boring Tools
<http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/41.jpg> Many of
you have shown interest in our Deep Vessel Boring DVD and subsequently
been asking about when you can get the tools required to be able to
create these beautiful vessels. Well good news! Brian and Gord have
sourced a manufacturer in China and have placed an initial order for the
Deep Vessel Boring Bar equipment. We will soon have the tools arriving
in Canada and available for delivery sometime in late August.
The tools will be available for purchase as sets which will include the
5 piece floor stand, designed for easy storage (as pictured above) or as
individual pieces.
<http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/42.jpg> A
secondary tool rest, adjustable to fit a variety of lathes, a convenient
feature allowing you to use your lathe's tool rest for the exterior of
the vessel.
<http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/38.jpg> The 5'
Boring Bar is 11/2" solid steel, machined so it threads together for
easy shipping and storage. Shown here with the secondary tool rest.
<http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/40.jpg> The
Cutter and Cutter Holder shown here are also part of the set.
As you can see, this is a quality piece of equipment to complement the
tools in your turning tool inventory. We will keep you posted as soon
as the equipment is ready for delivery.
Two Piece Hollow Form DVD
2pc <http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/8.jpg>
Just released!
Over 70 minutes of instructional footage.
Amateurs and professionals alike will learn Brian McEvoy's secrets to
producing beautiful works of art using only basic woodturning tools.
Once you have mastered the two piece hollow form, you can let your
imagination run wild and use this simple technique to turn out museum
quality work.
Our Price: $29.99 + Shipping
Preview our new DVDs
You can preview our DVDs on YouTube or at:
www.onegoodturn.ca
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A4s6JL379MUrq5Ao6yRlrLeOv976TXQ==>
<http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?et=1103527184858&s=10327&e=001oo5kL_CwZ0Sd7Hq
DOcyhDZxBEbr7jfIA9aWTrMh11HOonk8I9IaGs0dU2BYlv4QfcuP2gcgipnFG05Jj8xZHj5j
xV4oJqb16MpUI-SzsNEgtaAJhBDBOn5eqPWuEyz4x> www.langercraftworks.com
Your feedback would be welcome, and check out Gord's Blog at
langercraftworks.com.
Contact Us
Brian McEvoy
<mailto:brian at onegoodturn.ca> brian at onegoodturn.ca
<http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?et=1103527184858&s=10327&e=001oo5kL_CwZ0Si2vn
swbEWbjES8FtDVWRtp2AubaFyRwQMkR1i9UTN96ssqT75xf4GINR8QsWn0HoRdu9pFBavuDu
A4s6JL379MUrq5Ao6yRlrLeOv976TXQ==> www.onegoodturn.ca
Gordon Langer
gord at langercraftworks.com <mailto:gord at langercraftworks.com>
<http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?et=1103527184858&s=10327&e=001oo5kL_CwZ0Sd7Hq
DOcyhDZxBEbr7jfIA9aWTrMh11HOonk8I9IaGs0dU2BYlv4QfcuP2gcgipnFG05Jj8xZHj5j
xV4oJqb16MpUI-SzsNEgtaAJhBDBOn5eqPWuEyz4x> www.langercraftworks.com
Deep Vessel Boring DVD
dvb <http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs030/1103251462235/img/9.jpg>
Just released!
Over 90 minutes of instructional footage plus 20 minutes of bonus
features.
Join master woodturner Brian McEvoy who will show the process from raw
wood to sanded piece in easy to follow steps. Create amazing pieces
quickly with these never-before-seen secrets from a master woodturner.
Our Price: $29.99 + Shipping
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